A beautiful colour of burnished mahogany gives way to an utterly classical nose that prickles with dates, sultanas, ancient demerara rum, coal hearths, dried porcini mushrooms and a myriad of dark fruits. There are huge dollops of rancio and dunnage undercut with orange marmalade and cocktail bitters. Water brings an added earthy depth and throws up lemon curd and ground spice mix. To taste this one is beguilingly complex and stunningly poised. Motor oil, orange liqueur, citrus rind, cinnamon bark, tea tree oil, exotic hardwoods and luscious green fruits all vie for attention. With water there are further notes of hessian, espresso and bitter chocolate.