Description
The nose, briny and grubby (in a good way), suggested toasted nuts, seaweed and petrol (a frightened squirrel under a car bonnet by the harbour?). On the palate we found more brine, wood smoke, lemon peel, sorrel leaf and spiced green vegetables roasting over charcoal. On reduction, the nose had plastic beach furniture and prawns cooking over the smouldering embers of a bonfire, followed by a scoop of vanilla ice cream. The palate now became sweeter and slightly perfumed, with gummy bears, sherbet straws, grilled corn and mussels – appetising, but with an aftertaste of chilli, pepper and freshly docked submarines. It's curious, complex and challenging.